Resin will stick to almost anything, except silicone and Tyvek (or so I hear). To figure out how much material you need for the flood coat, multiply the square feet of the surface (length times width) by 0.0625″.
It’s a good idea to add 10% to that for waste. To figure out how much material you need for the seal coat, multiply the square feet of the surface (length times width) by 0.025″. Here are the two formulas to calculate exactly how much material you need for each stage: Calculating the Seal Coat A seal coat does just that, it seals the project with a thin coat of epoxy resin and helps to minimize bubbles during the flood pour. Calculating the Amount of Epoxy Resin Neededīefore jumping into the pour stage, you may want to consider starting with a seal coat. The resin is self-leveling, so if the project is not level then the resin will pool towards one side resulting in an uneven finish.
Resin cures faster at temperatures above 75 degrees F (reducing your working time) and slower below 75 degrees F.įinally, check your project to make sure it’s level. The working and curing space also needs to stay at around 75 degrees Fahrenheit (24 degrees Celsius) in order to properly cure. Hindsight is 20/20 Tip: Prep your project and pour the resin in a completely clean space that can be closed off and not entered for at least 24 hours. Because of this, even though I vacuumed and wiped down the piece before starting, I still ended up with some floaty bits. My studio is always a bit dusty and under attack from ladybugs and other creepy crawlies. I did not pour over the white legs or side pieces. Yellowing isn’t as much of a concern for the project that I chose, as it will be kept inside and it has yellow in the scene already. Even the ProMarine Table Top Epoxy (now renamed Promise epoxy Resin) that I chose, which is advertised as “crystal clear” and “UV resistant” clearly states that there may be slight yellowing over time. I wouldn’t recommend pouring resin over a white project that will be left outside or next to a window in a bright sunny room. The best way to avoid this appears to be to simply keep the piece out of the sunlight. One of the biggest complaints with resin is that it yellows over time. The only downside is that it is expensive and it is stinky.
resistant (less likely to yellow or amber over time) Eliminates craters, crawling and fish-eye.I chose this product because it seemed to be the easiest to work with (aka Becky-proof): I did a lot of research before I finally settled on the product ProMarine Table Top Epoxy. If you would like to learn more, please check out this post at. Create protective coatings for wood and metal.Epoxy resin is used as a filler or a surface coating to: However, it contains VOCs, is more expensive, cures more quickly, and is not as malleable as polyester resin. Polyester resin is used more as a filler to:Įpoxy resin is easy to use, water, heat, abrasion, and impact-resistant.
However, it doesn’t stand up to water or impact as well as epoxy resin, it’s not UV resistant, it’s very stinky, and it cannot be used as a sealer. Polyester resin is less expensive, cures hard, can be drilled and polished, scratches can be easily buffed out, it takes longer to cure (which can also be good as it allows for longer working time). I’m so glad you asked! Below is a summary of what I found in my research: Polyester Resin There seemed to be two primary options to complete this project:
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